Suit Jackets 101 - The "do's and don'ts"

Jacket Basics

The following informative piece is a bit of basic schooling from the Saibu team - specifically on the do's and don'ts of styling and selecting menswear jackets. 

Why we don’t button the last button:

When it comes to buttoning up our suit jackets, we’ve been taught to follow the ‘Sometimes-Always-Never’ policy. Nowadays suits generally have two buttons and sometimes a hidden 3rd button towards the top, notably called a 3-roll-2 format. By rule, we will never button the last button of any jacket whether suit, bomber or coat because it restricts the movement by not allowing the jacket to move freely.



We can accessorise to the nines but one thing that is a must-have, is a pocket square. The smallest details make the biggest impact and squares spruce up your outfit with minimal effort. There are guides on how to fold a square, which are more appropriate for formal occasions like weddings but we roughly tuck into our breast pocket.


Suit doesn’t fit - Sizing:

Jacket – Who would have thought that shoulder pads should sit on your shoulders, right? The end of the seam line of a jacket shoulder should sit on your shoulder bone (you can feel a rounded bone if you feel the end of your shoulders). This allows for the best fit.



Your jacket sleeves should end six inches from the end of your thumb for a rule of measure.   Another guide is the kink of your wrist - the sleeve should end just above the base of it.


Jacket waist:

You should be able to put fit a hand snuggly inside a buttoned jacket. Any smaller or bigger means it’s the wrong size. This is a good rule of thumb to use when judging correct jacket sizing off the rack.


Follow these do's and don'ts and your foundations will be set to rock a strong suit jacket game correct and by the book! More menswear educational pieces dropping soon, feel free to ask us any questions or suggest topics. We would love to hear from you!

1 comment

  • I absolutely loved it. I need advice on how to get the perfect suit when you are a skinny and tall man. I am 6ft tall and 66kg, it’s kind of hard to look good even with a tailored suit because I am so skinny. Beside since I am trying to get weight I worry about getting a high end tailor suits which may end up not fitting me in few months when I’ll have got more weight.


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